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2002 mazda protege 5 fuel pump3/18/2024 ![]() ![]() If checking and replacing the fuse for the component in question doesn’t work, we recommend seeking assistance from a trusted professional mechanic. If you need to replace a blown fuse in your Protege5, make sure you replace it with one that has the same amperage as the blown fuse. Some components may have multiple fuses, so make sure you check all of the fuses that are linked to the component in question. If your Protege5 has many options like a sunroof, navigation, heated seats, etc, the more fuses it has. Next you need to consult the 2002 Mazda Protege5 fuse box diagram to locate the blown fuse. Some Mazdas have multiple interior fuse boxes including in the trunk - the video will show you where the interior fuse box of your 2002 Protege5 is located. ![]() If your Protege5 is experiencing electrical problems, you should always check the fuses first, because they are relatively easy to check and cheap to change. Electrical components such as your map light, radio, heated seats, high beams, power windows, headlights, fan blower, defroster, door lock, power seat, windshield wiper motor, fuel pump, horn, anti-lock brakes and rear view camera all have fuses and if they suddenly stop working, chances are you have a fuse that has blown out. R2 leads to a Violet wire on the back of the fuse block, when touching this wire to test it with a test light the FPR opens and the fuel pump kicks on.This video shows how to replace blown fuses in the interior 2002 Mazda Protege5 fuse box of your in addition to the fuse panel diagram location. So I have attached an image of the wiring for the FPR, and these are the results of this the tests I did. So I am getting nowhere with this really, so now I checked about the fuel pump. I also checked the knock sensor on the back of the block and this too is plugged in. When the key is off, the B and C posts read as a Ground when testing with the Test Light.Īfter testing this, I checked the CSP and the CKP wiring and both were plugged in and in good condition as well as the sensors (Do not know exactly how to test resistance of the sensors). So there is a positive charge on all three posts for the coils, and this is both coils. 0v (I think, I will have to recheck this) Okay, so I checked the "blue" wire coming from the PCM to the coil with the key on and here are the results.Ī Post (Red). If anybody can help explain this a little better, please do. What is that capacitor doing? And why does the A side of it connect to the ignition wire? While the wire coming directly from the ground is going to the B side, and also bypassing it completely and going to the B sides of the coils? If the Red wire is coming from the ignition switch, the blue wires coming from the PCM, and the orange wire coming from the ground. Still nothing, checked the spark plugs and found that there is now no spark and that makes issue NO.2 I manually open the relay and the fuel pump kicks in, tried to start the car while I held the fuel pump relay open (Fuel pump working). I pulled the relay cover off and noticed that it is not functioning, so I replaced the relay and it still does nothing. I tested the fuel pump, and it does work. So I replaced the starter, now it cranks very nicely the way it is supposed to. Everything checked out fine, so I left it alone and put everything back together. So I pulled the valve cover off to look at the camshaft markings to see if it was in time. I also noticed that the car barely cranked over, as if it was struggling to start. I started checking things and noticed that the fuel pump was not kicking in, must have kicked in a little in order to start the car, but probably not enough to keep it running properly. I put a new (used) motor in the car, and tried starting it, car started but ran EXTREMELY rough (so bad that I never took it off the jackstand because it would not idle and would die if I let off the gas) and it would only run for seconds before dieing anyway. I did touch one of the prongs with a negatively charged test light and the relay opened and fuel pump kicked in, so I know that the relay is good. I have replaced this relay with 3 different relays and they all yield the same results (Non functioning, as if they are not receiving any signal to open). But for some reason the relay isn't opening by itself. I have checked the fuel pump, by manually opening the fuel pump relay and the pump will turn on. So my conclusion is that the coils are not receiving any signal. I even switched out the coil with another coil just to be certain, and still nothing. I further tested this by placing a screwdriver in place of the spark plug and placing the SD close to the block while it was cranking and that too gave no spark. ![]() I tested this by pulling the spark plugs out and touching them to the block while it is cranking, the have nothing. ![]()
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